On March 20th, British food writer Fuchia Dunlop presented her new book "Invitation to a Banquet" at the Charing Cross Library, where she met with readers. The reader meeting was organized by the London Reading Book club. President Bai Xianping of the London Reading Book club welcomed Fuchia's arrival. After an introduction by club member Andrea, the discussion was moderated by member Yan Jiang.
In 1994, Fuchia arrived in Chengdu, Sichuan, embarking on a wonderful culinary journey. Her works, including "Shark's Fin and Sichuan Pepper," "Every Grain of Rice," "Land of Plenty," and "Land of Fish and Rice," have become popular worldwide. As a straight-A student who had already obtained a Bachelor of Arts from the University of Cambridge and a Master's degree in Sinology from the School of Oriental and African Studies at the University of London, Fuchia recalled that her fascinating culinary journey was influenced by her parents' lack of emphasis on her studies during her childhood. Therefore, at the age of fourteen, she often went to the kitchen to bake cakes and cook, thus early developing her passion for food. In addition to her unique taste experiences and insights into culinary culture, Fuchia's works also include highly practical recipes. She shared that a Chinese reader friend, whenever asking her mother for cooking instructions over the phone, would always receive vague responses like "a little soy sauce, seasoning to taste." In the end, they enthusiastically followed the Chinese recipes written by this British author.
Cooking dishes by hand not only enhances their flavour but also imbues them with deep emotion. Fuchia remarked, "As a foreigner, I am especially careful when writing about Chinese cuisine. I meticulously annotate each dish in my books with its origin and preparation method. I aim to provide an objective perspective from both East and West, sharing the most authentic culinary experiences with readers worldwide and dispelling biases and double standards." She explained, "For example, in the UK, if a dish includes every part of an animal from nose to tail, people might consider it a sustainable, eco-friendly novelty cuisine. However, in China, this has long been a common practice, but due to some inherent biases, Western diners mistakenly perceive Chinese cuisine as fast food high in carbs and unhealthy."
Twenty years ago, the world viewed China as the "global factory," but now, "China Intelligent Manufacturing" and "Quality Development" have become new images and endorsements for China, and Chinese cuisine is slowly revealing more culinary treasures beyond dishes like "Kung Pao Chicken" and "General Tso's Chicken." As one reader put it, "All biases stem from self-imposed boundaries. If we discard these biases, eating dog meat or beef becomes inconsequential. Without biases, everything ceases to be a problem." It's worth noting that since Fuchia's first visit to China thirty years ago, there are now many second-generation Chinese who are fluent in both Chinese and English, better able to explain concepts like "mouthfeel" and "chewiness" to local diners. She mentioned that Western food enthusiasts may not understand why Chinese people eat tasteless and chewy foods like sea cucumbers and fish maw. Even Fuchia's father likened eating duck tongue to "going to war." While most may assume that consuming animal organs is only for the poor, they may not realize that ancient Chinese emperors were also fans of delicacies like shark fin and duck tongue.
Fuchia encourages everyone to develop their own perspectives and opinions on both food and culture. For example, regarding the bias that "Chinese people eat anything," Fuchia believes that this can also serve as inspiration and imagination. Against the backdrop of environmental impacts caused by food production and consumption, as well as global warming, China's vast territory and abundant resources have led to the development of vegetarianism and a wide variety of ingredients, which may become the "new trend" in the culinary world. Furthermore, as a country with a rich agricultural heritage, China is shifting its focus from exotic ingredients to dietary lifestyles, such as "farm to table" practices, where fresh ingredients can go from the field to the dinner table in just a few hours, potentially becoming a "new luxury."
Translator He Yujia, who has collaborated with Fuchia on multiple works, surprised everyone by appearing in a video message. She mentioned that translating Fuchia's works always felt like a "work-related injury" as the spicy and aromatic descriptions tempted her to indulge, resulting in gaining more than ten kilograms after translating an entire book. It is this vivid and lively description that touches readers' hearts and makes them feel hungry. Fuchia revealed that unlike previous works, she knew from the outset that her new book, "Invitation to a Banquet," would have a bilingual version, providing her with a completely new writing experience.
Bai Xianping expressed that the organization of this event was also serendipitous. A core member of the book club met Fuchia during her trip to China and introduced her to the London Reading Book club, which piqued Fuchia's interest. She said, "I didn't expect to find such a Chinese reading club in London, let alone one that has been around for ten years." Therefore, she readily agreed to return to London and chat with readers about her books. This marked Fuchia's first Chinese reader meeting in London, and she felt honored to have such an opportunity.
A few years ago, Bai Xianping read Fuchia's "Shark's Fin and Sichuan Pepper." After finishing the book, she bought the English version to give to her daughter, hoping that it would deepen her understanding of Chinese cuisine and culture. This book sparked numerous discussions about Sino-British culture within Bai Xianping's family. She also bought several English copies to give to Chinese exchange students, hoping to help them improve their English skills. She expressed excitement at the opportunity to interact with Fuchia face-to-face. For the book club, having just completed a group reading of "Shark's Fin and Sichuan Pepper," members even felt that Fuchia was more "Chinese" than they were, given her passion and rigorous scholarly approach to researching Chinese ingredients, cooking, and food. During the interview that day, Yan Jiang referred to her as the "Marco Polo of Chinese food," a sentiment echoed by Bai Xianping. She stated that Fuchia's efforts and achievements in Sino-British cultural exchange deserve respect and emulation. Her attitude and approach are worth pondering and learning from, and she hoped that the meeting would inspire everyone to think about this aspect.
Miss Zhang, a reader who has lived in the UK for many years, told reporters that ten years ago, her British husband gave her a book by Fuchia as a "token of affection." This "token" has now become her husband's kitchen bible, allowing them to eat whatever they want without going out to restaurants. For readers, the opportunity to interact with Fuchia and He Yujia in person and experience Fuchia's calm and serene storytelling, along with He Yujia's lively innocence, allows them to appreciate the unique charm of their many culinary works.
3 月 20 日,英国美食作家扶霞·邓洛普携新书《君幸食》(Invitation to a Banquet) 在查宁阁图书馆(Charing Cross Library) 与读者见面。本次读者见面会由伦敦读书会(London Reading Book)主办。伦敦读书会会长白鲜平对扶霞的到来表示欢迎。在伦敦读书会会员 Andrea 对扶霞进行介绍后, 由会员岩江主持对谈。
1994 年扶霞来到四川成都,就此开展了一段奇妙的美食奇缘,其著作《鱼翅与花椒》、 《寻味东西》、《川菜》和《鱼米之乡》等风靡全球。作为早已取得剑桥大学文学学士、 伦敦大学亚非学院汉学硕士的“学霸”,扶霞却回忆,自己精彩的美食之旅得益于小时候父母“不重视自己的学习”,所以在十几 岁的年纪就经常到厨房去烤蛋糕、做饭,早早与美食结缘。因此扶霞的作品中,除了视角别具一格的品味体会和饮食文化,还有极具实操指导意义的食谱。她分享到,有一位中国读者朋友,每次打电话问自己母亲菜的做法时,得到的回答总是“少许酱油、适量调味”,最后反倒是跟着她这个英国人写的中国菜谱做得兴致勃勃。
亲手烹调的菜除了美味外更有深厚的感情在,扶霞说,“特别因为我是外国人,所以不会乱写中国美食”,她不仅在书中会仔细标注出每道菜的师傅和做法,更希望自己站在东西中间的角度,客观地向世界读者分享最真实的美食体会、消除偏见和双标。“举例而言,如果在英国做一道菜把动物从鼻子到尾巴都做进去人们会说这是可持续、环保的新式菜肴”,她说,但在中国,这种做法早已是日常,却因为一些固有偏见让西方食客以为中餐是只有碳水的、不健康的快餐。
二十年前世界以“全球工厂”的定位认识中国,而现在“中国智造”和“新质发展” 以不可阻挡之姿成为新的中国形象和代言, 中餐也从“宫保鸡丁”和“左宗棠鸡”等“一招鲜”,缓缓展开更多美食画卷。正如一位读者所言,从扶霞的作品中感受到:“一切的偏见都来自于自我划定的界限,抛开这种偏见,你吃狗肉而我吃牛肉,并没有任何不同。抛开偏见,一切问题都不再是问题”。 不过值得欣喜的是,自扶霞第一次到访中国至今已有整整三十年,世界各国越来越多精通中英文双语的华二代可以更好地向当地食客解释“口感”、“嚼劲”等只有地道饕客才能形容的体会。她提到,西方美食爱好者可能完全不理解为什么中国人要吃海蜇、花胶这种没有味道又很难嚼透的食物, 扶霞的父亲也说吃鸭舌好像“打仗”,大多数人或许以为动物的器官只有穷人才吃,却 不知道中国古代的皇帝也是鱼翅、鸭舌等绝味的粉丝。
扶霞鼓励大家,无论是看待美食或是文化,“要有自己的角度和看法”,譬如对“中国人啥都敢吃”的偏见,扶霞认为这也可以成 为一种灵感和想象力,在食品制造和消费造成的环境影响和全球变暖的大背景下,中国地大物博,开发出的素食和食材种类也许是餐饮界的“新时尚”。此外,中国作为农耕文化起源大国,不再着眼于珍奇食材,而更注重饮食生活方式,譬如“就地取材”——新鲜食材从地里到变成餐桌上的一道菜只需要几小时(Farm to table),也可能成为“新奢侈”。
和扶霞通力合作了多本著作的译者何雨珈以视频的方式惊喜现身,她说每次翻译扶霞的作品都会“工伤”,麻辣鲜香的文字仿佛一只只“馋虫”诱惑自己“大吃一通”, 翻译完整本“胖了十几斤”。也正是这份生 动鲜活的描述,在译者真情实感的笔触下让读者大叹“馋虫击腹、食指大动”,扶霞透露, 新书《君幸食》不同以往,在撰写之初就知道会有中英双语的版本,因此对她来说是全新的写作体验。Invitation to a Banquet 也是根据新书的中文名得来。
白鲜平表示,此次活动举办也属机缘巧合,读书会的一位核心会员和扶霞在中国旅行期间相识,她向扶霞介绍了伦敦读书会,扶霞很感兴趣。她说,“没有想到在伦敦有这么一个华人阅读社团,还坚持了十 年……”,于是爽快地同意回到伦敦和读者们一起聊聊她的书。这是扶霞的第一场伦敦中文读者见面会,很荣幸有这样的机会。
白鲜平几年前就读过扶霞的《鱼翅与花 椒》,读完之后,买了英文版送给女儿,希望她从中更深入了解中国饮食和中国文化。 这本书引发了也引发了白鲜平家人诸多关于中英文化的讨论。她还买了不少英文版送给中国小留学生,希望帮助他们提高英语水平。 她说,能和扶霞面对面交流,是很兴奋的事情;对读书会来说,刚刚做了《鱼翅与 花椒》的共读(Book of the month, 我们每个月选一本书大家一起阅读讨论) ,读书会会员们甚至感觉扶霞比他们更是一个“中国人”,她以满腔的热爱和严谨的治学精神在研究中国食材、中国烹饪、中国食物。当天的访谈中,岩江称她是“中国食物的马可波罗”,白鲜平表示很同意。她说,扶霞在中英文化交流中的努力和成绩值得我们致敬和 学习,她的态度和做法值得我们思考和借鉴, 希望今天见面会给每个人带来这方面的启发和思考。
在英国久居多年的读者章小姐告诉记 者,十年前自己的英国老公送了一本扶霞的书给自己,这本“定情信物”现在成了丈夫的厨房宝典,“想吃什么都不用下馆子了,直接点菜”。对读者而言,面对面和扶霞、何雨珈交流,感受扶霞娓娓道来的沉稳与平静和何雨珈的活泼天真,体会多本美食著作别具一格的魅力。
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